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Sorry
these pictures are horrible. Instead of taking the pictures
myself, I let a co-worker take them. Big mistake. Sorry.
This will be a simple little cabinet finishing tutorial. For
this job we will be putting a clear finish on a walnut desk.
Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to take a picture of the
desk when it was raw wood. No worries because the look doesn't
change a whole lot from raw to finished wood when doing just a
clear finish.
Step
One -
First thing you want to do is fill any pin or
nails holes in the wood. Plus the desk may have some dings or dents
and they will need to be filled as well. We use famo wood walnut
filler and a putty knife. Simply put a small amount of the filler on
end of the putty knife and fill all the dings and dents. You want to
use as little filler as possible to avoid lots of sanding and
perhaps some cosmetic damage to the wood itself.
Step Two
- After you have filled all cracks,
dings, dents, nail holes, and anything else you could find you
should allow the filler to dry. This should take no longer than one
- two hours. After the filler is dry you will want to take some
sandpaper and lightly sand the filler until it is flush with the
surrounding wood. There are a few ways to do this, you can use a
sanding block, orbital sander, electric sander, or even a single
piece of sandpaper. Just be sure to sand lightly so you don't damage
the wood or make depressions in the filled area.
You will also need to sand
the entire desk until its smooth to the touch with no grains of the
wood sticking up. I would use a 220 grit sandpaper and an electric
sander because most of you wont have access to an orbital sander
because of the high amounts of air pressure it will require. It
would also work just using pieces of sandpaper and your hand, the
old fashioned way! lol.
Step Three
- OK now you have the
desk sanded and all of your nail holes and whatnot filled. It's time
to put some sealer on this thing. We will be using Hood Lacquer
Sanding Sealer. Almost any lacquer sealer will work, just make sure
to check with your local Home Depot or Sherwin Williams type company
so that you are using compatible products. Your stains, sealers,
topcoats, fillers, and so on require compatibility. If they are not
compatible the finish can wrinkle or flake off and we don't want
that!
Now for this project we will be spraying on the sealer and topcoat.
It is possible to roll or brush on the sealer and topcoat but it
will look much better if its sprayed on. We will use a conventional
spray gun for this. Simply spray, roll, or brush the sealer on the
wood. You don't need to put it on very heavy because we will be
putting on another coat after this.
Step
Four
- Now
that you have put your first coat of sealer on and let it dry
completely it's time to sand it. Note that all sealers dry at
different speeds, the sealer I am using dries very fast (about 15
minutes) and this is not much wait time.
To sand sealer I like to use a 3M sanding sponge with a "fine" grit.
Now simply sand the entire desk lightly. You should sand it until
the sealer powders up like dust and the wood feels very smooth,
almost like wet glass feels. Then wipe or blow off the desk followed
by steps three and four again.
Step Five
- Now it's time for the topcoat. We
will be using Hood Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer for this. Again, you need
to check with your local finish supply company to be sure the
products you are using are compatible with each other, this is very
important.
Before the topcoat you will need to wipe off the sealer dust and any
debris that are on the desk. Now you are ready to apply your
topcoat. We will be using a spray gun but you may have to use other
means to get the topcoat on. The important thing is to get a even
coat on the desk. Not too much and not too little. Watch problem
areas around joints and such, not to get runs or drips in the finish
coat by putting the product on too heavy or thick.
Step Six
- You may need to redo
step five again to get the correct look. Usually the more coats you
put on the better it will look. For this project we have applied
five coats of topcoat. Just be sure to sand lightly with a sponge in
between coats and clean all dust and debris off the wood before each
coat of topcoat. Also you must make sure to let it dry completely
between coats. Keep in mind topcoat is going to take much longer to
dry than sealer. This project was completed over a four day time
period so don't get discouraged.
Really sorry about these pictures. All the pictures that were taken
of this desk came out dark, only a couple were actually useable.
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JWP has
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My name
is Barry Goodknight, I work as a cabinet finisher at
the JWP Company. I also do all of the website and
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